Betathane is part of the group of materials known asbioplastics and has become the standard for many harnesses and related products.

Betathane strapping has a thin interior webbing impregnated with synthetic material which looks and feels very much like leather.  Mosot betathane is matte finish and grained to resemble leather.  Betathane is seven times stronger than leather, is not affected by weather, does not absorb water, does not stretch, maintains its shape, and is easily cleaned with water or a damp cloth. It is extremely durable. As our most popular harness material, nearly all of the harness we sell is made of betathane.  Some of our first betathane harness made in 1993 and 1994 is still in daily use and shows no sign of wearing out.

Biothane is a thin webbing impregnated with synthetic materials, in the class of bioplastics as is betathane.   Biothane has the same excellent qualities as betathane, the primary difference is that the surface is  of biothane strapping and sheeting is flat and shiny like patent leather. It is thinner and more plastic looking than Betathane.  Biothane is somewhat more stiff than beta, and is frequently used in Draft horse show harness because of it’s showy finish, light weight, lack of maintenance required and durability.

Some advantages of bioplastic harness are:

• Maintenance-free – really!
• No oiling
• Easy to clean
• Highly durable
• Stays soft and pliable – no stiffening over time or because of weather

The following are basic measurements.  To help decide the size you’ll need for your horse, we encourage you to use our handy-dandy measuring chart.

• Poll measurement is taken from corner of mouth, up over poll behind the ears, to corner of mouth on other side.
• Girth measurement is taken right behind the front legs, all the way around.

• Mini A, B, C, and Pony have 1/2″ Neck and Hip Straps, and 1″ traces.
• Mini C is a Chimacum Tack special size designed to fit mini’s who are a bit big for a Mini B and a bit small for a Pony size.
• Large Pony has 5/8″ Neck and Hip straps, and 1″ traces.
• Cob-Horse and Large Horse have 3/4″ Neck and Hip Straps, and 1.1/4″ traces
• Draft has 1″ Neck and Hip Straps, and 1.1/2″ traces

We can make any size you need, with any strapping you desire – both width and color. Many sizes and styles  are in stock.  However, we don’t stock draft parts or harnesses.  Please allow lead time for draft harness products.  If you have  special needs  or questions, please give us a call and we’ll be glad to take care of your order as quickly as possible.  We make harness for all sorts of animals and functions.

1. Measure from the corner of the horse’s mouth on one side, over the poll (behind the ears) to the corner of the horse’s mouth on the other side. This is called the poll measurement.
2. Measure from temple to temple across the horse’s brow. This is called the browband measurement.
3. Measure all the way around the horse’s nose approximately 2 fingers below the tear bones (located about midway down the horse’s face). This is the location for a cavason. The measurement is called the Noseband measurement.  Bridle measurements for various sizes are included with the products.

If you have a bit which fits your horse, measure the mouthpiece from inside the cheek on one side to the inside of the cheek on the other.

If you need to start from scratch, use a smooth straight stick, ruler or dowel and place it in the horse’s mouth as if it were a bit. Then mark the stick with a marker or pen at the outside of the lip. Once you remove the stick from the mouth, simply measure between your marks with a measuring tape or ruler.

To get the best fit measure from the center of the chest, along the side of the horse in a straight line, to the center of the tail. When ordering, round up to the next higher inch.

Also have a look at your horse’s neck to decide if a standard contour neck will work for  your horse or if you need a cutback neck.  Illustrations are with the products offering that option.

For draft horses it is sometimes helpful to measure the drop (from the center of the back to where the blanket edge should be on the horse) It is also useful to measure the drop for Donkeys and Mules and Mini Donkeys and Mules.

For LOTS more on Blankets, see the dedicated section on this page, below.

It does not matter how well a horse collar is made, if it is not properly fitted to the horse it is sure to hurt him. It is therefore necessary to use the greatest care in selecting the proper shape and size collar for your animal.

	To measure your animal for a collar, use a collar measure as shown,  or make one from carpenter’s squares or cut one from cardboard.  Place this caliper as shown.  The collar measurement requires a straight line thru the center of the horses neck.  To measure a Collar,  not the animal, place a ruler against the collar cap and measure to the inside brim of the throat as illustrated right.  It is easily done if you lay the collar on a flat surface and measure with a tape measure inside the rim from top to bottom.
	For size of draft, measure around the collar at the widest part, of one side near the bottom.
	When fitting a horse with a collar there should not be any more space between the horse’s neck and the throat of the collar than will allow your four fingers, when laid flat on the inside of the throat of the collar, to pass freely.

If care is taken in fitting the collar and adjusting the hames so the hame tug comes over the center of the draft, you will have eliminated all trouble with sore necks and shoulders and the horse will work with ease and comfort. More collared horses are ruined by collars which are fitted too large than from any other cause.

The size of the hames is dependent on the size of the collar. Buggy hames are generally the same size as the collar and Work Hames (Farm Hames) are adjustable and vary based on the size of the collar.  Farm hames can generally accommodate more than one size  collar.

Measuring for a harness is not difficult, but it is essential to getting a correct fit. See the following key and illustration below.

A. From corner of mouth, over poll, to other corner of mouth.
B. Length around nose, taken about two fingers width below the prominent cheek bone.
C. Length of browband – temple to temple.
D. Length of horse measured just on the side.  Not center of chest to center of tail.
E. Height of horse from lowest hair on mane to the ground.
F. Girth – measured at the heart girth as shown.
G. Length of back from position of harness saddle to base of tail. Line should be straight, not conforming to horse’s body.

H. Point of shoulder to point of shoulder on the other side.

I.  Point of hip to the point of hip on the other side.

Oh, dear! We’re very sorry.  If we have sent an incorrect item we will pay for both the return shipping costs, and ship you the correct item as soon as possible. Life does get in the way sometimes and we apologize for the hassle.

If you inadvertently ordered the wrong item here on our website, just give us a call and we’ll sort it out together.  It is fine for you to be human too.  We generally do not pay return shipping in such cases.

We try our best to make sure each item is exactly what you’d like. Special order items which were made to your specifications are not returnable.  As the saying goes, “Measure twice, cut once…”

However, if you’ve measured twice and still somehow managed to receive an item that isn’t quite right, we’ll work with you to make sure you’re happy. Just give us a call.

We accept returns of like new in-stock merchandise within 30 days of purchase unless other arrangements have been made.  Like new condition means you can try the product on and be sure it fits and  you are happy with it.  If for some reason you need to return it or exchange it for a different size, etc. it is important for you to be sure it is clean before you return it!  Also, be sure that parts are put together as they were when you received the item.  Returned parts that are dirty have to be sold as used parts; you will be charged a restocking fee in such cases.

We are generally glad to trade sizes; your job is to return clean parts to us for exchange.  Thanks.

There are two exceptions: you’ve specially ordered tack with brass hardware or colored strapping.  These items are not returnable.  We will try always to let you know brass is not returnable but even if you don’t remember that it is not returnable, we will remember!  Colored strap goods are not returnable as well.  You may have wished for a purple kick strap but it will not resell.

Please see the following question about returning custom-ordered items.

Special order items are not returnable.  However if you receive a special order item and wish to return or make changes please call Janie to talk about what options may be available.  We built our business on old fashioned personal customer service and we always try to treat customers as well as we would members of our immediate family.  Rarely have we been unable to solve any problem that arose.  Thanks.

Harnesses are made up of dozens of parts, all with unique names.  But that’s not a problem – here are a couple of handy chart to help you out, and if you’re still wondering what you need and how to get it, just call!

How cool!  Can we see pictures!?

Your special equine/capra/bovine/canine needs a special harness, and we’ll do our best to get you what we need. Since we work with a very special harness maker, we are able to get some really fun custom orders taken care of.  Like this pair harness we made for some sweet goats up in Northwestern Washington State: Goatorama!

If you need a custom harness, simply use our hand-dandy measuring tool, take your furry friend’s measurements, and then give us a call!

We’re so glad you asked!  Harness is our favorite thing to talk about, and if you spend time looking around our site and our blog you’ll learn all you need to know to make your decision.  We have worked for decades with experts, trainers, show judges, and hobby-drivers, and we’ve learned a lot about how to help you choose your harness.  Feel free to call or e-mail with any questions. We answer from about  8am to 8pm pacific time every day.

We specially designed our Comfy Fit harness to meet the needs of most of our pleasure and sport driving customers. Traditional pleasure harness is often the most appropriate for casual and/or occasional drivers. You may need farm harness, parade harness, logging or pulling harness, or even training harness,  Perhaps you  might be a Hollywood studio looking for a custom Emerald harness for a movie, such as the one we made for the “Oz the Great and Powerful.”, or a museum needing replica harness for a display.

Here’s a little short summary of each of our full harness products, to help you choose.

• Pleasure Driving Harness – Traditional  Buggy Harness
  • Mini thru draft sizes including special sizes for mini donkeys and mules.
  • Breastcollar or Collar/Hames style
  • Traditional pleasure harness is styled the  same way it has been for at least 200+  years.  The breast collar style features a straight breast strap that is one long unit from trace connector slot, around the front of the animal to the trace connector slot on the other side.  Traditional pleasure harness  has a well padded saddle (without a tree)  and s simple bridle with blinds and winker stays – typically with square blinds for horses, pigeon wing blinds for donkeys and mules.
  • Cruppers are soft folded leather made in such a way that nothing can rub on the sensitive skin on the underside of your horse’s tail.
  • Hardware can be stainless or brass although we make brass harness as special order and do not take it back.
  • Traditional pleasure harness is available in single or pair.  Standard, deluxe or super deluxe styles.

We make our traditional pleasure harness with care and attention to detail.  Each part is carefully cut and fitted and stitched using traditional equipment.  The difference now is that we use contemporary materials along with authentic time honored craftsmanship.  Traditional pleasure or buggy harness is well suited for casual pleasure driving,

• Pleasure or Competition Harness – Comfy Fit Harness
  • Mini thru draft sizes including special sizes for mini donkeys and mules.
  • Breastcollar, Comfy Collar  or Collar/Hames style
  • Comfy Fit Harness has several features differentiating it from Traditional harness.
    • Comfy fit Breastcollars are available in three styles,  V  curved, Deluxe (to allow more shoulder movement), and the Comfy Collar which is in essence a combination of a neck collar and a deluxe breastcollar.  Each collar style is designed to minimize airway constriction and ensure free movement.  There is also a specially designed breastcollar just for mini donkeys and mules.
    • Comfy Fit Breastcollars, breechings, saddles, neck straps are well padded.and adjustable.
    • Comfy fit saddles have an aluminum tree which is strong, light and semi adjustable. This gig type saddle is wrapped and padded with padding extending down the sides of the equine. Saddles are available with standard shaft loops,  quick release shaft loops or sliding backbands.
    • Comfy Fit Bridles feature a curved crown piece to avoid irritating ears,  an integrated noseband to keep the bridle stable on the animal, nicely shaped curved blinds and your choice of browband ornaments.
    • Cruppers are soft, folded leather made in such a way that nothing can rub the sensitive skin on your horse’s tail.
    • Comfy fit harness is available in all sizes as single, pair or other multiple configuration.
• Specialty Harness
  • Adaptive Walking Harness – designed individually for people using their VSE for walking assistance.
  • Dorsal Hitch Harness – is available in traditional style or comfy fit style, made to work with a universal joint which attaches the cart to the horse from above and allows the horse to turn 360*
  • Micro Mini Harness – traditional and comfy fit styles is designed specifically for the under 30″ crowd and is increasingly popular.
  • Alternative harnesses have been made for a number of critters as special orders – Our current favorites can be seen at http:www.goatorama.com
• Work Harness
  • Mini thru draft sizes for horses, mules and donkeys.
  • Single or Team or other multiple configuration.
  • Several styles other than the standard farm style:  i.e. hip style breeching, New England Side backer or logging/plow harness.
  • Features include a two strap breeching spider, hip drops and face ornaments
  • Extra heavy pulling harness for competition from pony thru large draft sizes.
  • Work harness is available in nylon or betathane.
  • Work harness can be spotted with round or diamond spots,  full or medium spots.
  • Work harness is proportioned for your animal and heavily built for extensive use.
• Parade Harness
  • Single, Team or other multiple configuration.
  • Features include three strap fancy breeching spider, hip drops and face ornaments as well as tie straps, .
  • Work harness is available in betathane (matte finish) or Bioplastic (shiny, patent look finish).
  • Parade  harness can be spotted with round or diamond spots,  full or medium spots.
  • Parade harness is proportioned for your animal and well built for extensive use.

And of course, if you have questions or want our input, feel free to call us!  Janie is always happy to help. 360-301-1317.  She answers the phone from 8am to 8pm pacific generally every day.  If you don’t reach her,  she will get back to you.

Different types of work or vehicles  require different style neck collars. Please note: All our collars are handmade  using traditional methods, and may differ slightly from images on this site. All are of the highest quality and craftsmanship.

Collar Shapes:

	Full Sweeny (FS) are for heavy and “stud like” necks, where the neck is extremely thick at the upper part of the neck.		Half Sweeny (HS) fits necks that are side and thick at the upper part of the neck. Most Draft Horses use HS.
	Full Face (FF) or straight collars fits flat and slender necks. Most buggy horses use FF.		Mule Collars have very straight sides and are available by special order.

The simple answer is that horses need blankets when they are cold or wet and are not able to generate enough body heat to stay comfortable on their own. A young healthy horse with a good diet and plenty of time outside in the fresh air, in different sorts of weather and getting plenty of exercise, will grow his own blanket. His hair coat is well designed to keep him warm and dry. He has two types of hair, a soft undercoat to trap body heat and longer outer hairs which are designed to shed water. If he can keep out of the wind and rain your horse shouldn’t need a blanket. However, if he’s wet, or thin, ill, or in a windy, rainy area without protection he may well need one.

Horses who are blanketed during the summer or fall to keep them clean, to reduce sweating, shorten cooling out time or hasten drying after bathing or exercise, or for other reasons, often have decreased hair growth and need to be blanketed thru the year. Clipped horses generally need blankets or sheets year round especially at night depending on their environment, their feed, and their activity level even in warmer climates.

Horses which are shown extensively spend a good deal of time clipped and dressed in sweats, neck wraps, hoods and sheets or blankets. Often in a show barn at night you’ll find horses with more than one layer if the temperature is cooler than normal. Once the show season is over it may take a little time for the hair coat to re-grow and the horse’s internal temperature regulation systems to function independently again. The important thing is to pay attention to your horse and see if he is comfortable.

Horses which have been recently relocated may need to be blanketed for their first winter if their new home climate is significantly different than their former one. For example, a horse from a southern climate may be very chilly in the north until his body learns how much hair to grow. A horse in a dry climate who moves to a damper climate may be cold as well until s/her becomes acclimated.

No.  It is important to take the blanket off frequently to check for spots where it may be rubbing and might cause sores or other problems, such as flaky skin or rashes, and to brush the horse to stimulate circulation and remove dirt and dead skin. It is also a good idea to leave the blanket off when possible to allow the horse’s skin to breathe. Take if off during the day whenever possible to take advantage of the fresh air.

Remember that horses are meant to live outside.  They are designed to function well in colder weather if they are healthy and well fed. You can tell if he’s chilled if he is shivering.  He may have “goose bumps” with his hair standing on end or stand stiffly with his tail clamped against his body. He may feel cold to you when you feel his face, ears, or in his “armpit”.  He may just look unhappy and be standing with his tail tucked tightly against his body.

Look to see if he’s sweating.  If he’s blanketed look first under the blanket then along the neck and behind the ears.  As the temperature rises to the mid 50s during the day horses in turnout rugs are likely to sweat which then turns clammy and cool under their blankets unless they are breathable.  On days of significant temperature changes it is always better to have less clothing.  Horses can raise their temperature by moving around, standing in a sheltered spot, but if they are blanketed their only option for cooling is to sweat.

Absolutely.  Your feeding program is crucial to your horse’s health and the ability of his body to regulate itself.  As the weather becomes colder your horse needs more calories to generate body heat.  More calories required more hay!  Make sure your horse is getting enough grazing in addition to their morning and evening feeding.  There are also a number of other options to consider for increasing calories within the guidelines for good equine nutrition.  Talk with your vet about adding Beet pulp or corn oil to the diet if you are in a cold area or if your horse seems to need more calories to keep warm.

The most important measurement to take into account is the length of the blanket required. This is measured as the distance from the center of the chest to center of the tail.  Some brands have different measuring instructions based on their design differences, so be sure to ask before buying a blanket. It is also important to consider the build of your horse. A horse with a very big or stocky build will more than likely require a blanket larger than his length would indicate. Similarly, a finely built horse may require a size smaller.  A turnout blanket will be shaped differently than a stable blanket and will fit differently.  Be sure to consider the overall shape of the horse in choosing apparel!  Most blankets are sized in two-inch or three-inch increments. Blanket depth can also be a real issue for many horse owners.  For example a 48” blanket could be needed for a mini horse, a mini donkey or a Shetland.  The difference in depth for those three animals could be as much as 8-12 inches.  One 48” is not the same as another.

There are several places that you should check to be sure that your blanket fits your horse well.  The withers – Be sure that the blanket fits well up the neck and beyond the withers – to ensure that excessive pressure is not put either on the point of shoulder or directly on or behind the wither. A well-fitting blanket should lay 2-4 inches in front of the withers.  Different equine builds fit well with different styles and brands of blankets. Once you’ve put the blanket on the horse notice the way it lies on the horse’s neck as s/he moves.

The shoulders – Be sure the outside edge of the blanket is well in front of the shoulder to allow for free movement. Proper fit at the neck and shoulder are both essential.  With a well fitting blanket, the top strap of the front fastening should be about in line with the point of shoulder. If this strap lies much above the point of shoulder, your horse’s freedom to graze will be restricted. If the strap lies much below the point of shoulder, undue pressure will be put on his shoulders, which may cause rubbing. Check the overlap in the front to be sure that the two sides will remain in place as the horse grazes, walks, rolls, sleeps. If the overlap is insufficient the blanket will shift forward or back and/or bunch up causing rubbing.  Be sure to look carefully at the front closure system.  There are a wide variety of options on blankets of different brands. Think about your horse’s shape as you evaluate the best closure for your purchase.

The rump – 3 to 5 darts (depending on the type of the blanket) should be in place around the rear of the blanket to facilitate a snug fit over the rump. The end of the blanket, where the tail flap is attached, should finish just as the tail starts. Be sure that the fillet string is attached and fitted under the horse’s tail on all Turnout blankets. This is designed to ensure that  the back of the blanket is not  blown forward in severe wind. A strong gust of wind could put the back end of your horse’s blanket up around his back and neck causing irritation or distress. Should the fillet string break, be sure to replace it as soon as possible.  Some have questioned the need for the filet string. However, if you’ve had a horse blanket go sideways in a storm and frighten your horse you’ll agree that it’s important to keep the filet string in place!

The belly – the blanket should be cut deep enough so that the belly is not visible under the blanket!  Blankets come in a wide variety of styles but it is important in all cases for the blanket to be deep enough to curve under the belly to provide protection from wind and wet. Be sure to measure your horse from the center of the spine around the side and down as far as your blanket needs to cover.  When shopping for a blanket be sure to measure the blankets you are considering to be sure they are close to the measurement you need.

Type: Select your blanket style based on the housing/stabling conditions for your horse.  Is s/he primarily inside during colder, wetter weather?  Does s/he have a shelter with free access?  Is s/he protected from rain?  There are two general types of blankets.

A stable blanket is generally thick and very warm, designed for maximum comfort and warmth rather than maneuverability. They are most often used when the horse is stabled inside.  They are generally not water repellant or waterproof.

Turnout rugs and blankets are built to be a little more durable than stable blankets, and are meant to stay in place during outdoor activity.  Turnout rugs are generally tougher and more water repellant or waterproof than stable rugs.  In many climates it is important to search for a turn-out blanket that is fully waterproof and breathable.

Liners are also an option with several blanket manufacturers.  You may want to consider a waterproof turnout sheet with a quilted or polar fleece liner as an option for very inclement weather.

Weight:  Weight refers to the insulating quality of the blanket, not its’ actual weight.  The insulating materials in the blanket provide a range of protection.  The blanket weight you should use on your horse will depend on your climate, the length of your horse’s hair coat, your horse’s metabolism, activity level, type and amount of feed, and the barn temperature and draftiness.

Shape:  Quarter horse style blankets are cut to fit closely.  They tend to be shaped to curve under the belly and stay tucked up out of the way of the legs.  European style blankets tend to be cut longer, extending well below the belly on the side.

Neck:  There are several styles of neck cut.  Standard necks are cut for horses with narrower chests.  Contour style necks are designed for horses with broader chests and higher withers.  Cut back necks are cut to fit horses with large chests and heavy shoulders – i.e.  Draft Horses.

Closures:  Open front blankets are closed with adjustable straps and provide adjustability and variable fit at the neck.  Closed front blankets are joined in the front and do not offer adjustability.  They work well if the neck fits properly on the horse without adjustment.

Straps:  Some blankets offer crossed -surcingles which provide a simple, effective non-slip design. The cross surcingles should be fitted so that they hang comfortably under the horse’s belly. If they are fitted too tight, undue strain will be put on the blanket. If fitted too loose, the ability of the blanket to remain secure may be compromised.  Advocates claim these blankets eliminate the need for leg straps and the risks associated with them.

Other blankets maintain the stability of the blanket on the horse by means of leg straps which hold the blanket in place on the rear of the horse, prevent it from shifting while the horse is lying down, etc. It is important to fit the leg straps with care so that they stay close to the horse’s belly and do not allow a foot to get caught up in the strap.

Stable Blankets:  When machine washing blankets, follow the care instructions that came with the blanket or are attached to the blanket. Most stable blankets can be machine washed on warm wash and cold rinse cycle if you have a large front load washing machine.  Some Laundromats allows horse blankets to be washed or provide a laundering service. Most stable blankets should not be dry cleaned Mild soap should be used and multiple rinses to ensure that there is no residue left after rinsing. When possible wash twice, rinse twice. When the wash cycle is complete, you can fluff the blanket in a dryer on LOW for about 5 minutes. Then hang the blankets on a blanket rack in a warm (50-60F) area. If you hang them right side out for a few hours and then turn them inside out, they should be ready to use in a day.

Turn Out Blankets: Your turnout blanket will last longer and be more comfortable for your horse if it is cleaned and maintained properly. One thorough annual cleaning after the winter season may be sufficient, before the blanket is put away for the summer.  However in really wet or muddy areas you may need to launder the turnout blankets more frequently to prevent skin problems.

Wash with mild detergent and cool water.  High temperatures and harsh detergents will compromise the waterproofing of your turnout blanket. It is therefore vital that the following guidelines are strictly followed. Many blankets are now made with fibers coated with Teflon.  These are extremely waterproof, but cannot be put in the dryer AT ALL!  Be sure to read the label on your blankets. Before laundering, remove excess dirt from the outside with a stiff brush or hose the blanket down. After washing, be sure the blanket is rinsed thoroughly, drip dry — do not tumble dry.